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Video: The Elements of Taste

A chef in Chicago wants to blow your mind.

By TR Editors

Monday, February 12, 2007

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Technology Review presents its latest video , "The Elements of Taste." In it, Corby Kummer , who writes about food for The Atlantic Monthly , considers how technological cooking techniques, many of them borrowed from industrial food preparation, are influencing high cuisine. The video was spurred by an assignment given out of curiosity: what would Kummer, the author of Slow Food --which explores a culinary and social movement that champions food prepared simply and life lived simply--think of chef Grant Achatz's Chicago restaurant Alinea, the temple of high-tech food?

Chef Grant Achatz's Hamachi
Credit: Lara Kastner
Multimedia
•  Watch "The Elements of Taste"

"I was all ready to hate it," says ­Kummer, "having watched with progressive alarm chefs torment perfectly good, innocent food into whimpering submission with the pathetic excuse of forwarding the culinary arts. But eating at Alinea was as transformative for me as eating at El Bulli, the culinary madhouse north of Barcelona, is for fellow foodies. I was fascinated by what I ate, liked a lot of it, and was really seduced by a few dishes. It didn't turn me into a complete convert--I think most American disciples of the weird, novelty-as-all El Bulli food go way overboard, and I'm not interested in dining at their lab benches, so to speak. But in the hands of someone as fiercely ambitious as Grant ­Achatz, I'm willing to put at least one foot into the future."

The video also includes Achatz talking about his ultimate aim: to use food as a kind of artistic medium to give individual diners an emotional experience. "If you can get past the soy sauce on chocolate, you will enjoy it and feel a certain way. It's a journey where your heart beats a little faster." You can read the full story of Kummer's experience in " The Alchemist " and learn more about how Achatz creates his unusual concoctions in a multimedia slide show .

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Comments

  • food as art
    while there is great history in terms of food as art, it seems to me that the final word should be "enjoyment." the goal of giving "individual diners an emotional experience" is all well and good, but what if the emotion is hate, disgust, or disappointment -- that would meet his goal, but not satisfy the ultimate goal of good food, which should be to create pleasure for the diner. this reminds me of the "artistic" masterpieces in reality shows like "Trading Spaces," where a designer sometimes intentionally structures the room in a way they know the homeowner will hate in the name of their "artistic vision."
    Rate this comment: 12345

    smithsomian
    02/13/2007
    Posts:71
    Avg Rating:
    4/5
  • Food as the answer
    Get meal plan from nutritionist in the form of
    an  Rx, give to the chef's messenger(waiter)
    then pray while waiting for the health restoring
    masterpiece of good taste.
    Rate this comment: 12345

    abcarterjr
    02/13/2007
    Posts:45
    Avg Rating:
    3/5

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