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March 2007

Nanocosmetics: Buyer Beware

Continued from page 2

By Apoorva Mandavilli

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For example, NIH's Sally Tinkle has found that under certain conditions--if the skin is stretched a certain way or rubbed with enough force--nanoparticles can move below its top, dead layer. If the skin has cuts and abrasions or has been damaged in some other way, particles can get through to the layers underneath. "That's well established," says Tinkle. What happens once these particles reach the bloodstream is unclear. Some studies have found that smaller particles are cleared faster than larger ones and so are safer, but others suggest that once inside the body, nanoparticles travel through the blood, lodge in the lungs and brain, and accumulate over time, with effects that are still poorly understood.

Definitive answers to these toxicity questions may take some time to emerge. But given that nanoparticles behave differently from their larger counterparts, it makes sense to have a regulatory system that is able to recognize this size-dependent behavior. And it makes sense to provide regulatory oversight based on the unique chemistry of nanoparticles.

That kind of oversight might not be welcomed by the cosmetics industry, but without it, the entire promising field of nanotechnology could be in danger. If a safety problem is associated with a cosmetic product marketed for its nano ingredients (even if it doesn't really have any), the public perception of nanotech could be affected more generally. In Germany, there's already been one scare with a spurious nano product. In March 2006, after the "Magic Nano" spray bathroom cleaner was released, a number of people who had used it fell ill. Amid the confusion that followed, nobody, including the manufacturers, seemed to know exactly what was in the product. But the damage to nanotech's reputation had been done. "What it really highlights is the confusion about what people actually mean by the terms," says Maynard. "We need transparency in this whole area."

In Bionova's case, I'm still not sure whether the cream on my dresser contains any nanoparticles, and if it does, whether they will help or hurt me. Since the small dark-blue jar arrived, salespeople from the company have called me four times--ostensibly to check on whether I have any questions. During the first call, the sales rep told me that for the first few days of use, when the cream is opening up my pores and cleaning them out, "your skin is going to look aggravated. It's going to look itchy; it's going to look flaky."

I've yet to do more than smell the cream, and I doubt I ever will, so I won't know whether glowing skin would follow the flakiness, as the salesperson assured me. No matter how lovely the jar is or what lofty promises are made on behalf of its contents, the specter of tiny little nano-whatevers making their way through my body is enough to keep me away.

Apoorva Mandavilli is senior news editor at Nature Medicine.

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Comments

  • Incorrect "Scare" Article
    ashalleck on 03/12/2007 at 9:38 AM
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    This is a very biased, unsupported article and I'm surprised it was printed.  This is one person who is afraid to use a product that is in general distribution with no adverse affects.

    The FDA and the nanotech industry, currently led by scientists and businessmen (not hucksters) with children and grandchildren, have been amazingly responsible and self policing if this author had done the slightest bit of research other than a few superficial calls. In fact, the nanotech industry has been a model of concern and care about possible effects of their poducts because no one in the industry wants another GM market crisis.  The Nanobusiness Alliance, the industry trade organization run by Sean Murdoch (ex-McKinsey star), has testified in front of Congress to obtain more funds to do long term nanotech eco/evironment/health studies. Meanwhile the FDA has applied existing rules to all nanotech products ... so far quite successfully ... and there have been no - I repeat - no instances or studies that have successfully implecated any marketed nanoproduct in any societal negative impact.  The danger is that these "scare" articles are imprecise and don't reflect what is really going on in the nanoworld. I write about the nanoworld every month in a newsletter called "NanoClarity", am one of its experienced critics,am  an MIT grad, and if any bad stuff was really happening, I'd be all over it.  My only advice to the author is use the product you paid over $100 in it. It has no nanotech in it as we define it and your cry here, although in theory is one many in the industry have already addressed, don't slam an entire industry by your single data point on a curve that is really being well defined. Last, I call your attention to the recent Dupont/Evironmental Defense draft safety roadmap and last fall's FDA nanotech safety meeting. If you had researched any of these, you would probably not written this article or have written it in a much more responsible way.
    Rate this comment: 12345
    • Re: Incorrect
      clemrod on 03/28/2007 at 6:12 AM
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      1
      Good comments.  So how on earth did a cosmetics scam arrive in Technology Review?  Someone on the editorial staff must be desperately lazy, and nearly as lacking in nanotech understanding as the author of the article.
      Rate this comment: 12345
  • Re: incorrect
    Bill Hillary on 03/28/2007 at 9:24 AM
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    1/5
    Nanoparticles are awesome.  I got one stuck in my eye for three days once and I could like see really good out of that eye. I wood have done it again, but I lost the rest of the nanobot in my back yard.  I think the dog barried it.

    The editor is just scared of cool stuff, thats all.  Maybe if he'd grow a pair of sox than he'd get it!
    Rate this comment: 12345
  • Mesothelioma
    keiran on 03/29/2007 at 12:47 AM
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    2
    Yep all technology is good, there is no moral component to science and we've never seen any problems with small particles and biological systems.  Or you could try googling James Hardy Industries, asbestos and mesothelioma.  It took about 40 years for the evidence to become unambiguous.
    Rate this comment: 12345
  • Nonsense
    malvido on 03/29/2007 at 10:57 AM
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    1
    Articles like this make me wonder about the rest of the articles.
    Rate this comment: 12345
    • Re: Nonsense
      prawin on 04/02/2007 at 9:44 PM
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      5/5
      This is a perfectly good article that raises valid questions. It is known that chemicals exhibit abnormal properties in nano-size, [different from nano-concentration]. The effects of such chemicals haven't been studied, but products with such chemicals have been sold to unsuspecting customers who have nowhere to turn for further information. And, there is no regulatory body who can police the industry on the issue.

      This article asks all the right questions.
      Rate this comment: 12345
  • Bionova
    heidiswiss on 04/22/2007 at 9:51 PM
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    5/5
    I have been using Bionova for 2 years and see dramatic improvement in my skin.  The reviewer casts doubts on herself by her unwillingness to try the product. 

    I will continue to use this product.
    Rate this comment: 12345
  • Bionova is great!!
    wise&smart on 04/23/2007 at 1:27 AM
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    1
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    5/5
    My skin has totaly changed since I started using Bionova!I can leave without foundation now and I am not ahamed of my skin..No more acne & blemishes.
    I think the article is poorly written and the author have not tried the product...
    Rate this comment: 12345
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